164 main st.
Annapolis, Md. 21401
tel. 410.263.1985
fax. 410.263.1986
50 BEST
RESTAURANTS,
By Dave Butcher, John Farlow, Hannah Feldman, and Bianca Sienra
For that all-important first impression, you want a place that's sexy, maybe a little hip, and not too formal -- somewhere quiet enough for sweet nothings, but with food and decor that can jump-start conversation if your nerves get the better of you.
Aqua Terra, 164 Main Street, Annapolis, 410-263-1985. Expensive.
Although it recently expanded into the space next door and a few changes have been made on the menu, Aqua Terra definitely retains its unique place as a star in the Annapolis dining firmament. The coolly chic but casual storefront dining room has hip charm, as does a menu loaded with interesting Asian-inflected items from both sea (aqua) and land (terra). A few starting tapas have Cal-Ital flair, like the bacon-fig compote with Roquefort mousse on crostini. We're partial to the straight-ahead Asian small plates, though, like an unusually fine version of tuna tartare -- generous cubes of pristine fish bathed in a sweet chili sauce with mango-wasabi and caramel soy sauce -- or a lobster sushi roll wrapped in crunchy tempura to dip in a fabulous peanutty soy. Among the entrees, we swooned over the tall-food concoction of tempura rockshrimp cake, crispy wontons, and a marvelous grilled fish called escolar, piled atop tender baby bok choy and swimming in a smoky shrimp beurre blanc. Terra selections include several steaks and chops, and a terrific mixed grill of semi-boneless quail, duck breast, and veal sausage over a creamy asparagus-and-tomato risotto. Skip desserts -- they're so-so -- and choose instead a nice cognac or single malt as you watch the passing parade outside on busy Main Street.
© 2004 - 2006 Aqua Terra of Annapolis